Kindred Escapades: Oslob, Cebu: Home of Giant Whale Sharks and an Exquisite Waterfall

Cebu has a special place in our hearts... our birth place and home town. It is also where mine and Nina's path crossed during our secondary years. No, we weren't lovers then nor did we have the same peer group. We attended different universities and had no communication until after college. I pretty much spent almost half my life there. I migrated with my folks to California, she worked in Thailand and eventually we settled down here in Singapore.

Back in Cebu, we both live in the metropolitan area. I never had the opportunity to visit the southernmost part of the island. So this vacation, we decided to have a family road trip down. Unlike US' freeways and SG's expressways, Cebu's streets are narrow. At certain areas, the "highway" is only a two-way traffic junction. What it lacks in size it makes up on the not-so-typical views you've been accustomed to and great wind. The breeze, especially once you go past the city municipalities, is cool and fresh. Turn off the A/C and roll down your car windows and just inhale deeply. Your eyes are also sure to have a feast as you navigate your way through rustic villages, scenic cliffs, and historic churches.

I have always fancied doing this trip while I was still back in America. I believe the 3-hr drive is nothing compared to the 6-hr US101 (Los Angeles to San Francisco) or the 19-hr I-95 (Florida to New York/New Jersey) which I have steered through. Don't get me wrong though, driving in Cebu though near is treacherous. Well, in fact, driving in the Philippines is. Bigger passenger buses tend to push you off the road and approach your vehicle head on! Don't fret. It's perfectly normal. In my opinion, if you know how to drive in the Philippines, you can drive elsewhere around the world be it left or righthand drive. I suggest if you're new to the country, take the bus or hire a van with driver who knows the terrain well. Someone who's also pretty familiar where to stop for the best delicacies (e.g. chicharon and lechon of Carcar, etc.)

Heated pool overlooking the ocean, perfect for afternoon dips and water play. Pay extra attention to kids as it is deep.

Mama Naida looking through the menu so they can prepare our dinner ;)

While I was browsing for accommodations near Oslob, I stumbled upon Granada beach house. I was specifically intrigued and fascinated by this secluded place as it's set on a peninsula. Locating the place wasn't a problem as instruction on their site is clear and road signs are prominent. Just when you get off the main road, you have to be extra careful as there is a steep drop area which is also not well-lit at night time. The view didn't fail and went well beyond our expectation. Life here seems to be at a standstill and instantly presents you with a relaxed vibe. The rooms were perfect for families as they were spacious and well-maintained. Bedroom paint and decor was a mixture of vibrant and earth-toned colors. Jacques, Keira and their staff were very accommodating and friendly. Keira was even worried for papa when it took a while for us to return from our waterfall trip. She thought he must have been left behind. Haha.

TGBH staff was kind enough to light up a bonfire as we lounged under nipa huts and got on the hammock

Big breakfast before heading off to see the whale sharks and waterfall

Not far from where we stayed was this spot to view the whale sharks or butanding as they are locally called. Along the road, there were a few areas that put up signages that also offer whale shark watching. This one was hard to miss as it was swarming with parked vehicles both public and private. What I had in mind was a native nipa and bamboo hut where they hold their briefings before boarding the bancas. I was up for a surprise. It looked to me like a newly-built concrete, multi-purpose hall... busy with tourists and locals. The toilet and shower area is on a separate facility.

Local volunteer briefs the visitors on the guidelines when interacting with whale sharks

It was a perfect day! Sky was clear and the waves calm. Props to the local officials and fishermen for educating the visitors on the do's and don'ts when in the water with these gigantic creatures. The hall was well-equipped with a sound system and a billboard sign posting of all the precautions. We had to be seated and boarded by batch in an orderly manner. There are these gentle giant defenders or sea wardens (men in blue shirts) that assist you on and off the boat. They are an association of fishermen who look out for your safety. They make sure you have a life jacket, hold your hand as you enter and exit the boat, feed the whale sharks, and paddle the banca. Hand your waterproof GoPro, which unfortunately we still didn't have, and they would be glad to capture your adventure. As I chat with manong (what we call the elders) Zosimo, these plankton-eaters swam with them even during his father's time. The news of their sighting just exploded when Korean foreigners captured their experience and posted it on YouTube.

Tan-awan Oslob Sea Warden and Fisherman Association (TOSFWA) or Gentle Giant Defenders

A warden hands out our life vests before boarding

A short paddling distance of around 30 - 50 feet from the shore, they position all bancas in one row. They then rope them up together so as not to drift away. I'm guessing around 15 - 20 boats of 5 - 7 adults sit there as spotters direct the whale shark (as they scoop up tiny fishes in their dipper and drop them in their humongous mouths). Each banca gets to have a close look at these species. That time, there were 3 - 4 whale sharks present. Before we had to jump off the boat, manong cautioned us to hit or put our weight on the katig or outrigger so as not capsize it. Nina had a close encounter with the whale shark as she got hit by its tail. Nevertheless, we both had a blast swimming with these gentle creatures.

Funny how this Western snorkeler looks like he's being chased by a whale shark. lol

Mommy makes a big splash as she tries to avoid the outrigger

Constructed just by the foot of a mountain, this facility handles the many tourists and local visitors

The spotter feeding and directing the swim of the fish

Part where Nina got hit by the tail as it swam too close past her

Casey and daddylo (grandpa) enjoying all the commotion

Daghang salamat (thank you very much) manong Zosimo for a safe ride!

We hope to be back soon, butandings! ;)

We promised Casey whale sharks and a real waterfall. The "waterfall" he's gotten to know of are those seen in building structures cascading off the concrete walls. We finished with the whale sharks around noontime so this trip to Tumalog Falls was with the sun at its peak. Vehicles weren't allowed to descend all the way to the foot of the falls as the road was extremely steep. It's either you go by foot or catch a ride from habal-habals or motorbikes at a minimal cost. We opted to walk as we had kids with us. It was a good 20 - 30 minute exerrrrrrcisssse.

But as soon as we got there, we were mesmerized by its beauty. Surrounded by lush greenery and lanky bamboo trees, this vertical water drop is a rare treasure. Its unique base unlike any other waterfalls is remarkably shallow. You get to wade your way around waist-deep in the water! Nina wasn't feeling well so we didn't manage to take a dip. Part of it was because everyone was getting hungry already. But as we were leaving, Casey was adamant on getting in the pristine creek ahead. So I gave in to his request as we don't have the luxury to enjoy this often. Me and him stayed for a few minutes while the rest were starting to make their way back. As everyone were back up, there's this sari-sari store that was selling tempura and fresh coconut juice. After several sticks and a good drink, everyone was back in high spirits again.

We headed back to the beach house and picked up papa who stayed in for some Swedish massage. He joked around that he'd be taking the bus back to the city. This was before we left for the falls. It was the reason he thought he was left behind making Keira worry. Haha. She resorted into e-mailing us as she didn't have any alternative means of contacting us. We all made a good laugh about it and drove back home. A vacation well-spent and worth remembering. Fun times!